The engine is almost done.
I usually paint before assembly and touch up after. One technique I use on larger pieces that have one main side that will glue: wrap wide packing tape, sticky side up, on a piece of balsa wood, ruler or similar; place the pieces with the side that will glue down on the tape. Of course, I sand/cut off any seams and flash (extra bits created during molding). This helps prevent paint getting on the parts to glue, prevents the pieces getting easily lost and provides a stable mount so they can be easily painted.
Another day-1 activity: assess paints. I use a variety of brands and types (acrylic and enamel). If you can’t get the lid off or the pigments have clumped, it’s time for another trip to the hobby store. I find that’s a catch 22: you may know which paints to get based on the list on the model box at the store but you may not remember what you already have or what’s still usable at home. Usually, like most DIY home projects, it’s a couple trips back and forth. But remember to be flexible. This is your model. For example, I substituted aluminum for steel. That’s my prerogative, LOL!
I’ve traditionally gone with the ubiquitous tube-o-glue in the past. Sometimes I branch into specialty cement but this time….this time I shelled out almost $8. And it was worth it for precision tip, snug cap, perfect consistency, easy to hold and stands-on-its-own features and cleaning rods.
Many sets contain “chromed” pieces; they require delicate handling to prevent the coating getting scratched or rubbed off
A quick video to get in the swing
I always get so exited at this stage; just cracking open the box for the first time and laying out all the bagged pieces and decals; planning in my head and fantasizing about the body color options; it’s like a newborn with its whole life laid out before it-so much potential LOL
My latest project to while away the hours: ‘69 Shelby GT-500 Mustang with 2 build options; of course, I’m not going stock
